Under the Hood – All About Exhaust
We've
seen too much misinformation regarding exhaust theory. What kind of
misinformation? For starters, there are a lot of people in the "Bigger is
Better" camp. We're talking about exhaust pipe diameters. Even the big
magazine editors are boldly smattering statements like, "For a turbo car,
you can't get an exhaust pipe that's too big." Also, terms like "back
pressure" and the statement, "An engine needs back pressure to run
properly!" really rub us the wrong way.
Let's
start from the beginning. What is an exhaust system? Exhaust systems carry out
several functions. Among them are: (1) Getting hot, noxious exhaust gasses from
your engine to a place away from the engine compartment; (2) Significantly
attenuating noise output from the engine; and (3) In the case of modern cars,
reduce exhaust emissions.
Hardware
In
order to give you a really good idea of what makes up an exhaust system, let's
start with what exhaust gas travels through to get out of your car, as well as
some terms and definitions:
After
your air/fuel mixture (or nitrous/fuel mixture) burns, you will obviously have
some leftovers consisting of a few unburned hydrocarbons (fuel), carbon
monoxide, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides, sulfur dioxide, phosphorus, and the
occasional molecule of a heavy metal, such as lead or molybdenum. These are all
in gaseous form, and will be under a lot of pressure as the piston rushes them
out of the cylinder and into the exhaust manifold or header. They will also be
extremely hot. (After all, this was the explosion of an air/fuel mixture,
right?) An exhaust manifold is usually made of cast iron, and its' primary
purpose is to funnel several exhaust ports into one, so you don't need four exhaust
pipes sticking out the back of your Civic.
Exhaust
manifolds are usually pretty restrictive to the flow of exhaust gas, and thus
waste a lot of power because your pistons have to push on the exhaust gasses
pretty hard to get them out. So why does virtually every new automobile sold
have exhaust manifolds? Because they are cheap to produce and easy to
install.
The
performance alternative to the exhaust manifold is a header. The difference?
Where a manifold usually has several holes converging into a common chamber to
route all your gasses, a header has precisely formed tubes that curve gently to
join your exhaust ports to your exhaust pipe. How does this help? First of all,
as with any fluid, exhaust gasses must be treated gently for maximum horsepower
production. You don't want to just slam-bang exhaust gas from your engine into
the exhaust system. Just as the body of your '94 Eclipse is beautiful, swoopy,
and aerodynamic, so must be the inside of your exhaust system.
Secondly,
a header can be "tuned" to slightly alter your engines'
characteristics. We'll go in-depth into header tuning a little later.
Next,
exhaust gasses exit from your manifold or header, travel through a bit of pipe,
then end up in the catalytic converter, or "cat". The cat's main job
is to help clean up some of the harmful chemicals from your exhaust gas so they
don't end up in your lungs. In most cars, they also do a great job of quieting
things down and giving any exhaust system a deeper, mellow tone. You'll see a
lot of Self-Proclaimed Master Technicians (SPMT's) telling people that removing
a cat will get you tons of power. There's room for debate on this, but in our
experience, removing a catalytic converter from a new car won't gain you much
in the horsepower department. From the catalytic converter, the exhaust gasses
go through a bit more pipe and then into a muffler, or system consisting of
several mufflers and/or resonators.
Mufflers
Exhaust
gases leave the engine under extremely high pressure. If we allowed exhaust
gasses escape to the atmosphere directly from the exhaust port, you can well
imagine how loud and cop-attracting the noise would be. For the same reason
gunshots are loud, engine exhaust is loud. Sure, it might be cool to drive
around on the street with that testosterone producing, chest-thumping, 150
decibel roar coming from your car… for about 5.3 seconds. (Not 5.2 or 5.4
seconds… 5.3.) Even the gentleman's gentleman has got to use a muffler, or
system of mufflers, on their exhaust.
Types of Mufflers
Mufflers
can take care of the silencing chores by three major methods: Absorption,
Restriction, and Reflection. Mufflers can use one method, or all three, to
attenuate sound that is not so pleasing to the ears of the Highway Patrol.
The
absorption method is probably the least effective at quelling engine roar, but
the benefit is that "absorbers" are also best at letting exhaust gas
through. Good examples of absorbers are the mufflers found in GReddy BL-series
exhausts, DynoMax UltraFlow, and the good old-fashioned Cherry Bomb glasspack.
Absorption
mufflers are also the simplest. All of the above named mufflers utilize a
simple construction consisting of a perforated tube that goes through a can
filled with a packing material, such as fiberglass or steel wool. This is
similar to simply punching holes in your exhaust pipe, then wrapping it up with
insulation.
Another
trick absorption mufflers use to kill off noise is, well, tricky. For example,
the Hooker Aero Chamber muffler is a straight-through design, with a catch.
Instead of a simple, perforated tube, there is a chamber inside the muffler
that is much larger than the rest of the exhaust pipe. This design abates sound
more efficiently than your standard straight-through because when the exhaust
gasses enter this large chamber they slow down dramatically. This gives them
more time to dwell in the sound insulation, and thus absorb more noise. The
large chamber gently tapers back into the smaller size of your exhaust pipe,
and the exhaust gasses are sent on their merry way to the tailpipe.
Restriction
Obviously,
a restrictive muffler doesn't require much engineering expertise, and is almost
always the least expensive to manufacture. Thus, we find restrictive mufflers
on almost all OEM exhaust systems. We won't waste much time on the restrictive
muffler except to say that if you got them, you might not want to flaunt it.
Reflection
Probably
the most sophisticated type of muffler is the reflector. They often utilize
absorption principles in conjunction with reflection to make the ultimate
high-performance silencer. Remember any of your junior high school maths?
Specifically, those like numbers cancel each other when on a criss-cross?
That's the same principal used by the reflective muffler. Sound is a wave. And
when two like waves collide, they will "cancel" each other and leave
nothing to call a corpse but a spot of low-grade heat.
The Exhaust Pulse
To
gain a more complete understanding of how mufflers and headers do their job, we
must be familiar with the dynamics of the exhaust pulse itself. Exhaust gas
does not come out of the engine in one continuous stream. Since exhaust valves
open and close, exhaust gas will flow, then stop, and then flow again as the
exhaust valve opens. The more cylinders you have, the closer together these
pulses run.
Keep
in mind that for a "pulse" to move, the leading edge must be of a
higher pressure than the surrounding atmosphere. The "body" of a
pulse is very close to ambient pressure, and the tail end of the pulse is lower
than ambient. It is so low, in fact, that it is almost a complete vacuum! The
pressure differential is what keeps a pulse moving. Cut a hole in one of the
lids, point it toward a lit candle and thump on the other plastic lid. What
happens? The candle flame jumps, then blows out! The "jump" is caused
by the high-pressure bow of the pulse we just created, and the candle goes out
because the trailing portion of the pulse doesn't have enough oxygen-containing
air to support combustion.
Now
that we know that exhaust gas is actually a series of pulses, we can use this
knowledge to propagate the forward-motion to the tailpipe
The
runners on a header are specifically tuned to allow our exhaust pulses to
"line up" and "suck" each other along! This brings up a few
more issues, since engines rev at various speeds, the exhaust pulses don't
always exactly line up. Most Honda headers are tuned to make the most
horsepower in high RPM ranges; usually 4,500 to 6,500 RPM.
What
are exhaust manifolds and stock exhaust systems good for besides a really cheap
boat anchor? If you think about it, you'll realize that since stock exhausts
are so good at restricting that they'll actually ram the exhaust pulses
together and actually make pretty darn good low-end torque! Something to keep
in mind, though, is that even though an OEM exhaust may make gobs of low-end
torque, they are not the most efficient setup overall, since your engine has to
work so hard to expel those exhaust gasses. Also, a header does a pretty good
job of additionally "sucking" more exhaust from your combustion
chamber, so on the next intake stroke there's lots more fresh air to burn.
Think of it this way: At 8,000 RPM, your Integra GS-R is making 280 pulses per
second. There's a lot more to be gained by minimizing pumping losses as this
busy time than optimizing torque production during the slow season.
General Rules of Thumb with Headers
You
will undoubtedly see a variety of headers at your local speed shop. While you
won't be able to determine the optimal power range of the headers by eyeballing
them, you'll find that in general, the best high-revving horsepower can be had
with headers utilizing larger diameter, shorter primary tubes. Headers with
smaller, longer primaries will get you
slightly better fuel economy and better street drivability. With four cylinder
engines, these are also usually of the Tri-Y design, such as the DC Sports and
Lightspeed headers.
Do Mufflers "Make"
Horsepower?
The
answer, simply, is no. The most efficient mufflers can only employ the same
scavenging effect as a header, to help slightly overcome the loss of efficiency
introduced into the system as back pressure. But I have yet to see an engine
that made more power with a muffler than an open header exhaust.
According
to the flow bench, two of the best flowing units you can buy are the Walker
Dyno Max and the Cyclone Sonic. They even slightly out flow the straight
through designs from HKS and GReddy BL series. Amongst the worst, are the
Thrush Turbo and Flow Master mufflers.
Resonators
On
your typical cat-back exhaust system, you'll see a couple of bulges in the
piping that are apparently mini-mufflers out to help the big muffler that hangs
out back. These are called Helmholtz Resonators and are very similar to glass
packs. The main difference is that firstly, there is no sound-absorbing
fiberglass or steel wool in a Resonator. And secondly, their main method of
silencing is the reflective principle, not absorption. An easy way to tell the
difference between a glass pack and a true Helmholtz Resonator is to
"ping" one with your finger. A glass pack will make a dull thud, and
a true Resonator will make a clear "ping!" sound.
Turbo
Another
object that might be sitting in your exhaust flow is a turbine from a
turbocharger.
Not
only that, but turbo introduces a bit of backpressure to your exhaust system,
thus making it a bit quieter. All of the typical scavenging rules still apply,
but with a twist. Mufflers work really well now! Remember, one of the silencing
methods is restriction, and a turbine is just that, a restriction.
This
is actually where the term "turbo muffler" is coined. Since a turbine
does a pretty good job of silencing, OEM turbo mufflers can do a lot less
restricting to quiet things down. Of course, aftermarket manufacturers took
advantage of this performance image and branded a lot of their products with
the "turbo" name in order to drum up more business from the high
performance crowd. We're sad to say that the term "turbo" has been
bastardized in this respect, and would like that to serve as a warning. A
"turbo" muffler is not necessarily a high-performance muffler.
Pipe Sizing
We've
seen quiet a few "experienced" racers tell people that a bigger
exhaust is a better exhaust.
As
discussed earlier, exhaust gas is hot. And we'd like to keep it hot throughout
the exhaust system. Why? The answer is simple. Cold air is dense air, and dense
air is heavy air. We don't want our engine to be pushing a heavy mass of
exhaust gas out of the tailpipe. An extremely large exhaust pipe will cause a
slow exhaust flow, which will in turn give the gas plenty of time to cool off
en route. Overlarge piping will also allow our exhaust pulses to achieve a
higher level of entropy, which will take all of our header tuning and throw it
out the window, as pulses will not have the same tendency to line up as they
would in a smaller pipe. Coating the entire exhaust system with an insulative
material, such as header wrap or a ceramic thermal barrier coating reduces this
effect somewhat, but unless you have lots of cash burning a hole in your
pocket, is probably not worth the expense on a street driven car.
Unfortunately,
we know of no accurate way to calculate optimal exhaust pipe diameter. This is
mainly due to the random nature of an exhaust system -- things like bends or
kinks in the piping, temperature fluctuations, differences in muffler design,
and the lot, make selecting a pipe diameter little more than a guessing game.
For engines making 250 to 350 horsepower, the generally accepted pipe diameter
is 3 to 3 �
inches. Over that amount, you'd be best off going to 4 inches. If you have an
engine making over 400 to 500 horsepower, you'd better be happy capping off the
fun with a 4 inch exhaust. Ah, the drawbacks of horsepower. The best
alternative here would probably be to just run open exhaust!